A First-Time Visit to St. Andrews

Now, I must warn you. This is going to be a pretty jam-packed post. If only because my mom and I got up to a lot while we were in St. Andrews. 

If you can believe it, in all my (three) years of living in Edinburgh, I had never once made the journey to St. Andrews, our neighboring university town. My excuse is that I think it takes a little bit more effort to get to if you don't have a car- there's no direct train, so you get off at Leuchars and then have to take a bus into the town center. Okay, maybe that's not the best excuse (it's just an extra bus ride after all), but I'm glad that my mom's visit gave me the chance to finally explore this charming seaside town.  

Thanks to my mom, we were kindly invited to stay at the Fairmont, St. Andrews. A large property just a couple of miles down the road from the town center, the Fairmont is the epitome of luxe-resort living. But the best part? You don't feel like you're trapped. While you could easily keep yourself occupied with activities at the hotel all day, there's easy access to St. Andrews itself- whether that's by taxi or by the hotel's shuttle service.  

I'll clue you into some of the Fairmont's fantastic activities a bit later, but for now we'll start off with a gentle stroll. That is, the first of two walks along the coast that my mom and I took during our time in St Andrews. The Fairmont has great access to St. Andrew's famous coastal walk- and by great, I mean, you have to climb over a stumpy ladder from the golf course to get to the trail. But once you've surmounted the ladder, you can fully immerse yourself in all the natural beauty the walk has to offer- including wild blackberries you can forage for along the way!

It's not all fun and games though- there are some pretty slippy passthroughs! It all makes for a great photo though (and isn't that what really matters in the end?). We didn't get the chance to walk too far, as we had late lunch/early dinner reservations to keep to. That, and it was high tide, so we physically wouldn't have made it very far without a boat! (or an impromptu swim sesh...)

Having burned off a bit of energy walking, we headed into town to have a proper roast dinner (it was Sunday, after all). If you're looking for a spot that boasts a roast with all the trimmings, plus an out-of-this-world value for money, then Forgan's is your place. Tucked away down an alley on the main street, Forgan's is a hidden gem that has hip vibes and classic British food. The "Host your own roast" deal is all of £12.95 for a starter and a roast chicken with roasted veg and potatoes. And while you're always encouraged to do the carving yourself, your waiter will gladly do the honors should you prefer not to get too messy. This perfectly moist roast chicken was served with the most luscious gravy and perfectly cooked potatoes and root vegetables. And since my mom and I couldn't resists dessert, I guess I'll just have to mention that they serve one of the most outstanding stick toffee puddings I've ever had. Run, don't walk, to get yourself a slice of that!

Unfathomably full from our Sunday roast, we skipped out on having any more food and headed back to the Fairmont for a drink at the Clubhouse. Whether you'd like a glass of wine or a luxe cocktail, there are a number of bars and restaurants on the property that make for the perfect spot of relaxation.

Our second day started off with a bit of touristy sight-seeing. We headed into St. Andrews to have a look at the famous Cathedral ruins. Teeming with history, this site is best enjoyed by walking around the grounds slowly, eyeing up little details of what life must have been like back in the 12th century.  

It's almost solemn in nature, and we were lucky enough to not run into any ginormous tour groups while we were out exploring. Of course, there are surely tons of tour buses stopping in there on a daily basis. But go early to beat the crowds and get an up-close look at these fascinating ruins.

Of course, you're never far from the sea wherever you are in St. Andrews! I loved this keyhole-shaped break in the structure.

It seems as though when my mom and I are on vacation together, we can't go longer than a few days without sitting down for an indulgent afternoon tea! I'll admit, it's one of our favorite pastimes (if it can even count as a pastime!) We headed down to the atrium at the Fairmont, and were treated to a delectable afternoon tea, with the friendliest, most accommodating waitstaff, and baby blue china that was so pretty we ended up buying a teacup in the gift shop! Of course, no afternoon tea is complete without a little bubbly, so that's where we started. 

We munched on finger sandwiches of all varieties- from an Italian-style pesto, tomato, and mozzarella one to the more classic salmon and cream cheese. The fan favorite for both of us was the coronation chicken- perfectly spiced, with just a bit of sweet chutney for good measure. The pastries were really the star of the show here, with not only wide array of pastries but the option to have a slice of cake at the end (we boxed it up and took it to-go). Although I'm usually a chocolate fiend, I have to say my favorite pastry was the passionfruit eclair- so perfectly tart and creamy!

We headed back to our room filled to the brim with cakes and pastries, and marveled at the stunning sunset before taking advantage of the state-of-the-art health center downstairs. I thought I'd also mention that while I don't have any photos of it, my mom and I were treated to a fantastic facial treatment at the spa. Using high-quality products and highly trained professionals, the spa at the Fairmont is an attraction in and of itself. I had never had a facial before so had nothing to compare it to, but it's safe to say I felt relaxed and rejuvenated the moment I stepped out!

Since we had overindulged a bit on the afternoon tea treats, we opted for a light "dinner" of a cheese board and a drink! The Fairmont's main bar puts together a wonderful selection of local cheeses, crackers (including oatcakes of course), fruits, and chutneys for you to graze. We particularly enjoyed the soft brie-like cheese paired with the oatcakes!

The city of St. Andrews is first and foremost known for it's golf. After all, it claims to be the birthplace of the sport. And while the "Old Course" is perhaps the most well-known spot to tee off in St. Andrews, the Fairmont does a pretty good job in giving it a run for its money. The Fairmont's own course is as lush and green as you would expect, promising stunning coastal views and 18 holes of pure gorgeousness. The beauty of this course is really all I can vouch for, given that I'm not a golfer myself.

But perhaps not for long, since my mom and I were kindly treated to a private golf lesson on our final full day by Amy Yeates. She's the only female Director of Golf in Scotland (how cool is that?) and quite possibly the best golf instructor ever (I might just be a little biased). She not only taught us the basics, but also made us feel really comfortable as beginners on a professional golf course. Golf can be super intimidating (it's dominated by wealthy men, after all), but she made it feel like a breeze.

After learning the ropes, and taking the driving range by storm, we sadly packed away the golf clubs and headed on an adventure that was more our usual speed. My mom has always been a keen walker, so we made the promise to do the entirety of the coastal walk that stretches from the Fairmont to the town center. It's about 5-6 miles long, but seriously undulating (we may have had a few slip ups but nothing life-threatening).

We breathed in that coastal air, and marveled at the the views. 

A fury of almost neon fuchsia flowers along a grey skyline! The plants and flowers along this walk are just something else.

And stunning views of St. Andrews that made me wish I had a better camera!

Of course, no trip to the coast is complete without a meal of fish and chips! While you have a lot of great options for where to go for this classic dish in St. Andrews, Tailend does a pretty amazing job of keeping it simple, fresh, and a good value. My mom and I both ordered the half fillet, which was still plenty for lunch after our long walk. The batter was perfectly crispy and buttery, and the fish was delicate and fresh. Served with a delectable tartar sauce, it was heaven on a plate!

After filling up on seafood, we hopped on a bus to the Eden Mill distillery. Being a big drinker fan of gin, this was a must on my list. We sat down with a complimentary gin and tonic, and were told the story of how Eden Mill began. Interestingly enough, while gin distilling was only meant to be a temporary pursuit while they waited for their whisky to age, the market for craft gin skyrocketed and Eden Mill was in business.
 

We fought our way through the alcohol fumes of the distillery, watched as friendly employees packaged up the good stuff, and made our way to the bar for a tasting. We tried three gins with different tonics and garnishes, my favorite being the pink-hued Love Gin.

We came off of the tour with a few gifts and a newfound appreciation for gin! Or, in my case, an old appreciation revived. I would definitely recommend the Eden Mill tour if you ever get the chance. At £10 per person, it's a great value, you learn a lot, and you have the opportunity to try out some first-class craft gin!

For our final night at the Fairmont, we went out with a bang, and sat down for a comfortable meal at La Cucina. We started with an antipasto board to share, where our waiter surprised us with his picks of the day- tender prosciutto, marinated vegetables, and creamy mozzarella. As if that wasn't enough to start, we shared a bowl of spaghetti bolognese. While it sounds simple (if not boring), the local beef paired with tart tomatoes made for a really memorable dish.

My main, pork wrapped in prosciutto, was the perfect size after our overkill with the starters. Salty and meaty, this dish paired really well with the rich gravy and crunchy vegetables.  

For dessert, I opted for an Italian classic, Tiramisu. Creamy beyond belief, and with just a touch of espresso and chocolate, it was the perfect end to the meal (and trip).

Our little adventure in St. Andrews was a great way to explore Scotland without straying too far from Edinburgh. Being based at the Fairmont was ideal, allowing us to maintain a balance between enjoying the city, and relaxing at the hotel. Hopefully, a trip back to St. Andrews is on the cards at some point, so I can experience even more!