14.8.18

Postcards from Coastal France: La Rochelle


I went on the most dreamy French holiday in June. And now it's August and summer's almost over, but you know what? I'm still going to share some pictures from my trip. No shame. 

I used to never be a France person. I had only been once before I went to university, and it was that classic quick-fire trip to Paris where you pack in loads of sites every day and barely stop to catch your breath. Or maybe that's just what holidays are usually like in my family (sorry Mom!)

Anyway, I had never been to the lesser-known parts of France until I visited Beziers last summer. Ever since I've been hooked on the French lifestyle. 

Ben and I booked a coastal getaway in La Rochelle and Île de Ré to satisfy our craving for the beach and revisit a part of France that his family had taken him to when he was younger. Between the food, the culture, and the breathtaking sunsets, it really was a picture-perfect trip, fit for any touristy postcard. For now, I'll just share the first part of our trip- La Rochelle. 


Despite our fears of a weekend of torrential rain, La Rochelle greeted us with clear skies and warm air. We eagerly took restaurant recommendations from our Airbnb host and made a beeline for a seafood restaurant that was his personal favourite. Because when you're on the coast, what better food to eat than fish?

Le Cabanon des Pecheurs was a bit on the pricier side (for France, that is), but the vibe of the restaurant was casual. It couldn't have been a better pick for our first meal. We wanted somewhere unfussy and not particularly touristy, but where they would be able to deal with my lack of French speaking skills. I had a gorgeous piece of local fish with thick spears of asparagus underneath.



We skipped out on dessert at the restaurant and instead opted for a sunset walk along the port and a scoop of ice cream. If there's one thing you need to try in this part of France, it's the salted caramel ice cream. This area of France is famous for its sea salt- and you can bet that they were pretty heavy handed with it in this ice cream (not to everyone's taste, but it was perfect for me).




The next day we were up bright an early for some pastries along the river. Because who needs a big breakfast buffet when you have a boulangerie? We bought our breakfast from a nearby covered market.



We spent the morning walking around the town, taking in the sights of the port. The three fourteenth century towers are a looming presence in La Rochelle, reminding locals and tourists alike of their past involvement in wars and importance as a port city. Worth the money for both the history and the views, the towers are a can't miss attraction in La Rochelle.



Could there be anything more French than a baguette? Impossible. Cafe 44 is an unassuming, hole in the wall sandwich shop, but it's also your best bet for a fresh, no-frills baguette. Mine was filled with goats cheese, ham and fig jam. I honestly think this is one of my favourite things I ate on our trip.



La Rochelle’s botanical garden is a bit of a hidden gem. From the outside, it doesn’t seem to big. But once you’re inside, it’s a treasure trove of immaculately designed gardens.



Keeping with the theme of gardens, Le Jardin du Marche is an oasis of calm among busy restaurants at lunchtime. We stopped here for a coffee after visiting the botanical gardens and enjoyed being in the shade of their lush courtyard. Plus, they did a proper iced coffee- which is always a bonus for me!




Sadly, this was the end of our full day in La Rochelle because we had to move onto our next stop in Île de Ré! However, we returned to La Rochelle on our final afternoon in France before catching our flight. And I can’t recommend La Rochelle without also recommending the aquarium. We were as wide-eyed as the throngs of children populating the aquarium, eagerly pressing our faces against the glass to see the colourful fish!


Next week, I'll be back with a recap of what we did on the island of Île de Ré!


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